"Street Surfing" is a term I came up with a few years back to describe what is essentially "getting lost on purpose". It's a good way to kill time if you've got a full tank of gas, and is hands down the best way to find new gems in an area you think you know already, off-track places like beautiful backwoods windy roads, state parks overlooking the city, little hole-in-the-wall bars or taverns, or the parts of the ghetto where it's easy to get shot just for looking at someone wrong.
It's this last occurrence, by the by, that causes veteran street surfers to develop a very keen sense of "what might be two blocks ahead of you at any time". We base this mostly on how many people per block are "loitering on the stoop" rather than "enjoying the warm Spring evening out front".
Important distinction.
How street surfing works is you get a vehicle (preferably a motorcycle, although it works in a car) and drive with no destination in mind. Start on a road in a direction that you don't take very often. When you come to an intersection of any kind, make a gut decision about which direction is more appealing to you
at that moment, and take that road.
Repeat. Rinse. Repeat. Get lost.
By definition, what I did today wasn't street surfing, because I left the house with a destination in mind and made turn choices based on where I hoped each street would take me. What I did today, however, is very similar to "getting lost", in that I didn't get anywhere close to where I wanted to go.
Still, it was one of the best rides I've ever taken.
If you look at a map of Virginia, specifically focusing on the coastal areas, the first thing that's important to take note of is that the
Chesapeake Bay cuts up into the heart of the state like a knife, with tons of tiny tributaries and fjords and such spreading out in all directions from it. As such, it's actually difficult to find the actual coast here, because unless you end up in Virginia Beach (where I have been before and was trying to avoid - not because it isn't a fantastically joyous little beach town but simply because I was hoping to go somewhere new) you aren't really on the coast looking at the ocean, you're on a weird little fjordy doodangle thingie looking out into the Chesapeake Bay.
Which is all well and good and beautiful and scenic, I am sure, but today I had a hankering to see the ocean, so that's what I set out to do.
I picked a spot on the map that seemed bottom of the Bay enough to allow me to get my ocean fix, pulled up some simple-to-remember directions and set off on the bike. Somewhere around the
Richmond International Raceway everything fell apart, as somehow I missed what was supposed to be the simplest turn I would be making on the trip, but I decided to press on. I knew I was heading East, I knew the coast was East, so I figured I couldn't go wrong.
And missing that turn ended up being the best thing that could have happened to me all day.
Not long after I passed the airport, I rode by a Nabisco factory (bakery? baketory?). It was like what I would think riding past
Willy Wonka's Chocolate Factory would be like - the sweet crisp vanilla-tinged smell of what I could only imagine were thousands of little 'Nilla Wafers baking covered the road like a warm, comforting blanket, and I closed my eyes and grinned like a retarded kid with a new Scooby Doo lunch box and inhaled deeply to get the full effect of it all as I passed. It was bliss.
This is one of the reasons why riding a motorcycle is so much better than driving a car - the smells are inescapable and immersive and you become one with the landscape you are riding through.
Coincidentally, that's also one of the reasons why riding a motorcycle is worse than riding in a car, especially when you are behind a truck filled with chickens or a dumpster hauler or riding through Vermont. (They have very smelly cows).
Shortly thereafter, the scenery turned to farmland (as it often does around here if you drive in any direction for more than 20 minutes), with some of the most beautiful windy country roads I've ever ridden. From time to time the roads were buttressed by forest, which would break - shooting you out into farmland again only to reform like a train tunnel for you to ride into a few hundred feet later.
When I moved down here from Connecticut I thought I would miss the windy wooded roads, but Connecticut has NOTHING on this state - today's ride alone took me through more beautiful and fun-to-ride areas than I had ever found in my years of riding up North.
After an hour or so of these curvy autobahn-like stretches, I ended up in Williamsburg, which is a beautiful and richly-historic area. I street surfed for a little bit through downtown and around the William and Mary College campus, enjoying the scenery (college towns in the Spring mean summer dresses, tank tops, and jogging shorts - YUM) and trying to find the Williamsburg beaches so I could get my fix of ocean. As it turns out, there are no Williamsburg beaches. I don't know why I was so convinced there were, but as I confirmed on the Internet when I got home, they most definitely do not exist. I decided to cut my losses and head back towards Richmond after an hour or so of bumming around the area, as the sun was getting low in the sky and my back was starting to hurt. As well it should have at that point - I had been on the bike for about 3 hours straight at that point.
I happened across a state road that cuts through Richmond right near my house, so I hopped on it pointing West and started for home. By the time I rolled into Richmond it was dusk, and rather than just shoot through it on the street that runs by my house I ended up getting a little twisted up and making my way through the city on an artery I hadn't been on before. This turned out to be a good thing, because as I found out when I recanted my route to a friend who's lived here some years longer than I have, the road I intended to take goes through a part of town that's, well, not so beautiful. And the road I ended up on led me through an area I had never been before, and gave me a chance to see first hand just how beautiful and hip our fair city really is.
Richmond has a bad rap. Hell, I've personally badmouthed it myself in the past. In fact, my first interaction with my new home city was about 3 or 4 years ago. I was on a motorcycle trip from Connecticut to Florida, ironically because I thought at the time that I was going to be moving to Florida, and wanted to check it out. I rolled into Richmond at the end of my first day of riding, and after 8 hours in the hot sun on the highway all I cared about was finding a hotel and a place to eat a nice fat burger. So I took a downtown exit, and ran smack into desolation. I wandered around, found a few abandoned hotels, didn't see much sign of life, and immediately popped back onto the highway to go South a few more exits to stay at one of those highway hotels that exist purely to serve highway traffic.
I believe I called Richmond a "shithole". I believe I described it as "one big ghetto".
I was so wrong.
When you drive through the rest of the city - the part I didn't see those years ago - you see things like a
beautiful state park atop a hill overlooking the city, where battles were once fought during the Civil War. You drive down these beautiful colonial brick house-lined streets that could almost be cobblestone in their antiquity. You see these little corner restaurants with irreverent names, packed for dinner on a Monday night. You drive through a downtown that is actually living at night, unlike cities like Hartford or Charlotte that become ghost towns after 6 PM or on weekends.
What I learned today is that I live in one of the most beautiful and diverse states in the country. I learned that
Snoop Dee Oh Double Gee will be in town tomorrow night. I also learned that I don't have to go far to street surf what is undoubtedly one of the most interesting cities on the East coast, which is exactly what I intend to do next time I go out for a ride.
On purpose, this time.